Indigo and the Isle of Skye - Part 1

The connection between the Isle of Skye and the Indigo trade in the 19th Century.

Gaelic version below.

“In the year 1895-96, which was the record year, the export of indigo dye from India was 9,366 tons, valued at £3,566,700. Indigo was then one of the principal articles in the export trade of our Eastern Dominions.” — The Economic Journal, page 1.

The connection between indigo and the Isle of Skye.

There is a story in the folklore of the Isle of Skye about the connection between the island and the indigo industry in India, and how the people of Skye played a significant role in it.

Kenneth Macleod of Gesto was born in 1809. According to The Celtic Monthly, his father, Captain Neil Macleod, was “dispossessed of Gesto, which his family had held for over five centuries, in 1825 by the Chief (of Macleod).” Kenneth left for India with just “one golden guinea in his pocket, given to him by Mrs. Macdonald of Waternish.” He returned to the island as a wealthy nabob.

After his return, the feud between him and the Chief of Macleod, who had taken the land from his family, continued. While the fortunes of the Macleod Chief dwindled, Kenneth Macleod acquired estates including Edinbane, Skirnish, Greshornish, Tote, Skeabost, and much of Portree (The Celtic Monthly). He also built the hospital at Edinbane. Just months before his death in 1869, Kenneth outmaneuvered the Macleod Chief again by purchasing the Orbost Estate for £11,200.

According to the story, Kenneth Macleod gave £20 to anyone from Skye who wanted to seek their fortune in the indigo trade.

One such individual was Harry Macdonald of Viewfield House, Portree. His life story illustrates the social and economic changes occurring on the island at the time.

Harry Macdonald of Viewfield House

Harry Macdonald was born on April 30, 1845. His grandfather, Dr. Alexander Macleod, known as “An Doctair Bàn” leased Viewfield House, which had been built as a residence for the MacDonald estate factor. Harry’s father, Harry Macdonald Sr., came from Dingwall and worked as a shoemaker before marrying the Doctor Bàn’s daughter Joanna and leasing Viewfield in 1846. He established the law firm “Macdonald and Fraser” in Portree and served as the MacDonald estate factor.

Of Harry’s four brothers, Alexander worked as a solicitor and continued the family tradition as estate factor. Another brother, Thomas, became a Surgeon General in the British Army in India. John and Harry Jr. went to India to work in the indigo trade.

Economic Changes in Skye

After the Napoleonic Wars ended in 1815, Skye’s economy underwent significant changes. The kelp industry declined following a tax reform in 1822. Potato famines brought food shortages, and by the 1830s, landlords viewed crofters as less profitable than farmers. Many emigrated. Between 1826 and 1827, approximately 1,300 people left Skye for North America (James Hunter). By 1852, widespread poverty gripped the island.

The Role of Scots in India

According to Professor Tom Devine, nearly half of the East India Company’s writers between 1774 and 1785 were Scottish. In 1813, 14 major merchant houses in Calcutta were run by Scots. Many returned to Britain as wealthy men. Nabobs.

Harry Macdonald was one of many young men from Skye seeking employment in the indigo industry. In his book Indigo, W.M. Reid observed a surge of young men being sent from Britain to “try their luck in indigo.”

Harry Macdonald in India

Harry arrived in India in 1869. Family connections and other Gaelic-speaking Scots in the industry helped him establish himself. Dr. Charles Mackinnon offered him a role as an estate manager, marking the start of his prosperous career in indigo. Eventually, Harry purchased his own concern at Bubnowlie and also ventured into the sugar trade (Viewfield Papers, Portree Archive).

In an interview with Hugh Macdonald, Harry’s great-great grandson, it was mentioned that Harry once wrote home about securing a managerial position at a plantation with a salary of £5,000 a year—an extraordinary sum at the time.

Harry returned to Scotland in 1885, shortly before the decline of the indigo trade. He took over the lease of Viewfield House and remained financially connected to India while supporting Gaelic culture and artists like Màiri Mhòr nan Òran. Harry Macdonald passed away in May 1905.

The Legacy of Indigo

Wealth from indigo helped build many of Skye’s grand houses. According to The Great Book of Skye, at least 14 houses, including those at Ord, Tormore, Kyleakin, Viewfield, and Gesto, were built with indigo profits. By the 1890s, families in Skye’s large houses had greatly benefited from the indigo trade.

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GAELIC VERSION

“In the year 1895-96, which was the record year, the export of indigo dye from India was 9,366 tons, valued at £3,566,700. Indigo was then one of the principal articles in the export trade of our Eastern Dominions.” The Economic Journal, page 1.

Tha sgeulachd ann am beul-aithris an Eilein Sgiathanaich mun cheangal eadar an Eilean agus gnìomhachas an Indigo anns na h-Ìnnseachan, agus mar a bha Sgiathanaich cho mòr an sàs ann.

’S ann à Gesto a bha am fear ‘Coinneach Macleòid’. Rugadh e ann an 1809. Bha an athair aige, An Caiptein Niall, “dispossessed of Gesto which his family had held for over five centuries, in 1825 by the Chief (of Macleod)” a rèir an Celtic Monthly.

Chaidh Coinneach Macleòid dha na h-Ìnnseachan gun ach “one golden guinea in his pocket given him by Mrs Macdonald of Waternish.” (The Celtic Monthly). Thill e dhan Eilean mar Nabob. Duine beartach dha-rìribh.

An deidh dhà tilleadh, chum an aimhreit a’ dol eadar e fhèin agus ceann-cinnidh Mhicleòid, am fear a bha air an talamh a thoirt bhon teaghlach aige sa chiad àite. Fhad s’ a bha fortan Mhicleòid a’ sìoladh às, cheannaich Coinneach Macleòid “Edinbane, Skirnish, Greshornish, Tote and Skeabost and much of Portree”. (The Celtic Monthly). Thog e cuideachd ospadal an Aodainn Bhàin.

Beagan mhìosan mun do bhàsaich e ann an 1869, rinn e a’ chùis air Macleòid a-rithist nuair a cheannaich e Oighreachd Òrboist fo sròin Mhìcleòid airson £11,200.

A rèir na sgeòil, thug Coinneach Macleòid fichead not’ dha duine sam bith às an Eilean a bha airson am fortan aca fhèin a dhèanamh ann an Indigo.

’S e Harry Macdonald, Viewfield House, Portrìgh, aon den fheadhainn a ghabh am fichean not’ sin. Tha an sgeulachd-beatha aige a’ soillearachadh diofar atharrachaidhean a bha a’ tachairt air an eilean aig an àm - ann an atharrachadh coimhearsnachd agus eaconomaidh an eilein.

Rugadh Harry Macdonald air an 30mh den Ghibhlean 1845. Bha Taigh Viewfield ann am Portrìgh air màl aig an seanair aige, Dr Alexander Macleòid, neo ‘An Doctair Bàn’. Chaidh an taigh a thogail leis an Tighearna Mac Dhòmhnaill mar àite fuirich airson a’ Bhàilidh aige, obair a rinn An Doctair Bàn fhèin.

Bha an athair aig Harry Macdonald - Harry Macdonald Snr. neo “Old Harry” mar a chanar ris, à Inbhir Pheotharain. ‘S e greusaiche a bh’ anns an athair aige, agus chaidh e dhan Eilean Sgiathanach gus obair dhan Doctair Bhàn. Phòs e an nighean aig An Doctair, Joanna, agus ghabh e fhèin Viewfield air màl ann an 1846. Thòisich Harry Macdonald Snr a’ chompanaidh-lagh “Macdonald and Fraser” ann am Portrìgh, agus bha e fhèin ag obair mar Bhàilidh airson Oighreachd Mhic Dhòmhnaill.

Bha ceithir mhic aige a’ ruig aois. Bha aon dhiubh, Alexander, ag obair dha Macdonald and Fraser mar fhear-lagh, agus chum esan a’ dol an traidisean anns an teàghlach a thaobh a bhith ag obair mar Bhàilidh, an treas ghinealach a rinn an obair sin.

Bha mac eile, Thomas, na Surgeon General anns an Arm anns na h-Ìnnseachan. Chaidh na dithis eile, John agus Harry Jnr dha na h-Ìnnseachann gus obair fhaighinn ann an Indigo.

Bha atharrachaidhean mòra ann an eaconomaidh nan eilean an deidh crìoch Chogaidh Napoleon ann an 1815. Chaidh atharrachadh siostam cìsean ann an obair an fheamainn (ceilp) ann an 1822. Bha gainnead bìdh ann le gort bhuntàta, agus anns na 1830s bha Tighearnan an Eilein den bheachd gun robh croitearan ““less advantageous to the proprietors than farmers occupying the same tracts of ground. People who could afford to emigrate did so.” (James Hunter).

Eadar 1826 agus 1827 “about 1,300 people left Skye for the North American Colonies.” (Hunter). Dh’fhàg barrachd daoine buileach an deidh 1840.

“The Isle of Skye became the property of several proprietors, who, in the four decades following 1840, would serve 1,740 writs of removal, involving nearly 40,000 people all of whom, whether they were removed or not, had to pay 10 shillings for the cost of the summonses against them.”

John Prebble, The Highland Clearances (1963)

“By 1852 it was possible to observe of the north-west Highlands that ‘the great bulk of the population in those parts of our land are… on the verge of pauperism, with no immediate visible prospect of their distress being alleviated” and in Skye that Summer there was said to be ‘more squalid misery and positive starvation’ than at any time since 1846. An Emigration Commission agent who visited the island in June reported that ‘Any description that can be given must fall short of the sad reality. it is not too much to say that any of the swine in England are better fed and better housed than are the poor of the island.” (Hunter p78)

A rèir Professor Tom Devine, eadar 1774 agus 1785, bha faisg air leth de na ‘Writers’ airson an East India Company à Alba. Ann an 1813, bha 14 de na taighean mòra marsantachd ann an Calcutta air an ruith le Albannaich. “Some of the early eighteenth century generation…returned to Britain as rich men.” (Devine, Scotland’s Empire).

Cha robh Harry Macdonald na aonar ann a bhith ag iarraidh cothrom obair ann an Indigo. Dh’ainmich WM Reid seo anns an leabhar aige “Indigo”.

“Of late years the number of boys sent out from Home to “try their luck in indigo” have increased beyond all reasonable limits. The Home market is glutted, and it behoves parents of a certain social status to seek employment for their sons abroad.” (Indigo, WM Reid.)

Ràinig Harry Macdonald na h-Ìnnseachan ann an 1869. Aig an àm bha ceangalaichean teaghlaich agus Gàidheil eile a bha stèidhichte ann an diofar ghnìomhachasan ann a thug cothrom dhà a chuid casan fhaighinn fon bhòrd ann an gnìomhachas Indigo. (Norman Macdonald - Great Book of Skye). Thug fear, Dr Charles Mackinnon, obair dhà mar mhanaidsear oighreachd “ushering in an era of new manager-ship which was eventually to prosper as the business reached its full peak.” (Norman Macdonald - Great Book of Skye)

Tha WM Reid ag innse dhuinn cò ris a bha beatha coltach dha ‘planter’ agus e ùr anns an dreuchd.

“I will suppose the young to-be-Indigo Planter already arrived in Calcutta, and his call made on the agent. He has put up at the Great Eastern Hotel for a day or two, eaten his introductory tiffin with the “house”, and received his order to proceed up to join his “concern”. This will probably be about the 1st of November, when the cold weather has well set in and the climate is simply lovely…He will go by rail as far as, say, Mozufferpoe…. I will suppose our young friend to have at last, after the usual journey in trap or saddle, arrived at the “Sudder” or head factory, the residence of the Manager of the “concern”… where he will take up his residency, I will hope, for some years.” (Indigo, WM Reid.)

Tha N.M Macdonald ann an “Indigo Planting in India”, a’ toirt dhuinn beachd air meud a’ ghnìomhachais. Chaidh an teacsa goirid seo fhoillseachadh ann an 1877 aig a’ char as tràithe.

“Indigo is cultivated all over India, giving employment to millions of natives and thousands of Englishmen. In three districts alone, in Behar, where some of the finest indigo is grown, European capital is invested to the extent of no less than £5,000,000. Some 370,000 acres are under cultivation. There are seven hundred English gentlemen managing and working the “concerns”… the indigo industry appears to have generated employment of 925,090 in Bengal during the first half of the nineteenth century.” (Indigo Planting in India - NM Macdonald.)

Bha Harry Macdonald anns an àite cheart aig an àm cheart, An dèidh dha obair mar mhaidsear air Plantation, cheannaich e an ‘concern’ aige fhèin ann am Bubnowlie. Bha e cuideachd an sàs ann an siùcar. (Viewfield Papers, Portree Archive).

Chan eil teagamh ann nach robh an obair soirbheachail a thaobh cosnadh airgid. Ann an agallamh le Hugh Macdonald -Viewfield (‘S e Harry an sean-sean-seanair aige) bhruidhinn e air litir a fhuair iad bho Harry far an tuirt e gun robh e air obair fhaighinn mar mhanaidsear a bha a’ pàigheadh £5000 gach bliadhna, suim mhòr aig an àm.

Thill Harry Macdonald a dh’Alba ann an 1885, dreis mus do chrìon gnìomhachas an Indigo. Ghabh e an aonta thairis airson Viewfield House, ach bhiodh e gu tric a’ tilleadh dha na h-Ìnnseachan, agus chumadh e airgead ann an gnìomhachasan ann fad a bheatha. Bha e cuideachd uabhasach taiceil dha cor na Gàidhlig, agus luchd-ealain na Gàidhlig, leithid Màiri Mhòr nan Òran. (Hugh Macdonald Interview 2019).

Bhàsaich Harry Macdonald sa Chèitean, 1905.

‘S e airgead mar seo, air a dhèanamh à Indigo, a thog tòrr dhe na taighean mòra san Eilean Sgiathanach. Anns an ‘Great Book of Skye’, bha Tormod Dòmhnallach an dùil gun robh co-dhiù 14 thaighean air an togail le airgead bho Indigo.

“By the 1890’s, the families in the big houses of Ord, Tormore, Kyleakin (Kyle House), Corry, Viewfield, Greshornish, Portree House, Portree Lodge (leased from Lord Macdonald for a long period by Francis Murray), Uiginish and Gesto, to say nothing of other large estate houses such as Husabost and Monkstadt, where there was also a residual cross-over of Caribbean sugar plantation proits, had all benefitted substantially from indigo revenue…: Norman Macdonald (Great Book of Skye).

Chan eil ach an sin ach pàirt bheag dhe sgeulachd an Indigo – ‘s mathaid gun sgrìobh mi tuilleadh mu dheidhinn uaireigin eile.

Tapadh leibh airson leughadh.

AN DEIREADH.