“The Raids” – Sùlaisgeir after the Second World War.
With only one man left after the war who had been to Sùlaisgeir, how did the tradition continue?
Gaelic version below.
One day, I was up in the loft and found interviews I had done twenty years ago with three men who went to Sùlaisgeir shortly after the Second World War. I thought the interviews were lost. I was so glad to find them.
I’ll write down what I remember – with An Gaisean and Murchadh Ruadh from Port, Eve from Skigersta, and Murchadh a’ Ghladstoin “Jellicoe” from Adabrock. If I get anything wrong, please tell me.
Thank you to Catriona McGeoch for letting her use photographs her father James McGeoch took at the time. The photographs are copyright the Estate of James MacGeoch.
Sùlaisgeir is about 70 nautical miles north of Ness. The people of Ness go there to take part in fowling (The Guga Hunt). In 1549, Donald Munro wrote that men from Ness would sail there in their open boats “”to fetche hame thair boatful of dry wild fowls with wild fowl fedderi”.
After the war, I was told only one man had been there before – An Diùc. He passed on what he knew to others who started going out – in small boats (sgothan), villages racing each other out to the island to see who could come home with a catch first.
Fionnlagh MacLeod wrote in his book Sùlaisgeir that these years brought big changes to how the hunt was done. The changes have remained to this day.
This was no fixed tradition. They tried different ways and new equipment to see what worked best to serve their purpose. The started using blondins (a blondin cableway installation) and chutes, to make the work quicker. They even changed the equipment they used for fowling.
Back then, before fishing boats took people out, men from Ness rowed or sailed there in open boats called sgothan. By 1947, three boats were going, though not all were ready for the journey. These short trips were called “The Raids.” It was a race – who would get there first, who would bring the birds back first. An Gaisean told me, “We were kind of bored after the war.”
They went to kill the birds and bring them back as soon as possible. The women would pluck the birds at home, on the breakwater. They used the old style of open Ness boats, with sail and oars – the sgoth Niseach. Boats like An Catriona and Am Mayflower were in use at that time.
But things changed after the First World War and the sgothan were used less and less. The war in 1914 had affected the fishing. The new boats had engines (something for which the sgoth wasn’t well suited) and few new ones were built after 1914. They were hard to maintain and hard to use.
Murchadh Ruadh said that the iron nails were the main problem. After two years, you had to re-nail the boat. Any longer, and it was too far gone. When going to deep sea, the boat had to be in good shape.
One reason for the switch was safety. Open boats were dangerous. The Catriona was lost. So was the boat from Adabrock, the Mayflower.
I heard a story from many people – about Murchadh a’ Ghladstoin gold watch and the loss of the Mayflower. Murchadh a’ Ghladstoin (Jellicoe) told it to me, but he didn’t want to be recorded that day.
The Adabrock boat went out. A storm hit and they were stuck on the island for days. I doubt if they even had a sandwich between them. They hadn’t taken much water, either. They tried to save the Mayflower but the swell was too much and she was sunk.
Eachainn Chaluim Eachainn drank from a small pool and got sick, breaking out in boils. (When I asked Eachainn what it was like to go to Sùlaisgeir, he said, “It was hellish.”)
In the end, they saw the Stornoway lifeboat. The sea was still terribly rough. The captain said, “We’re going in, but I don’t think we’ll be coming out.” The lifeboat couldn’t get close enough so they threw a rope. Each man had to jump into the sea and be pulled aboard. That was the plan.
Eachainn was in such a rush he threw off his jacket. They found it a year later, where he had thrown it. Murchadh a’ Ghladstoin told him, as the lifeboat crew were about to pull him through the waves, “Careful, Eachainn, don’t get your feet wet.”
Then it was Murchadh a’ Ghladstoin’s turn. He remembered the gold watch from America he had brought as no one else on the crew had one. He didn’t want to lose it, so he stuck it under his chin and tied it fast. He grabbed the rope and jumped. They pulled him aboard so fast, the watch didn’t even get wet.
Three years earlier, there had been another bad storm. A passing tanker gave them a tow home. But the tanker was too fast. The boat creaked like it was breathing. But they got home. Calum a’ Bhodaich worked the pump. Murchadh a’ Ghladstoib steering. The pier at Skigersta was packed with people waiting. Calum a’ Bhodaich crouched by the engine and told his mate, ashamed they had been towed: “I’d rather have drowned!”
The races ended after that and they started to use fishing boats, staying as one crew on the island with the fishing boat taking them on and off. Maybe that was just as well. It was a dangerous thing and a miracle the crews of these boats survived.
As Murchadh Ruadh put it, when someone asked him who made up the crew of an open boat that they were both watching leave for Sùlaisgeir, he said, “Five fools and the Creator.”
END.
GAELIC VERSION
Bha mi anns an lobht’ an latha eile agus thàinig mi tarsainn air agallamhan a rinn mi bho chionn deich air fhichead bliadhna, le triùir a bh’ ann an Sùlaisgeir às dèidh an Dàrna Chogaidh. Bha mi an dùil gun robh mi air an call. Bha mi cho dòigheil am faicinn.
‘S mathaid gun cuir mi sìos an seo beagan dhe na dh’fhuirich leam bho bhith a’ bruidhinn riutha – An Gaisean agus Murchadh Ruadh às a’ Phort, Eve à Sgiogarstaigh agus Murchadh a’ Ghladstoin (Jellicoe) à Adabrock. Ma tha càil ceàrr agam an seo, nach cuir sibh ceart mi.
Tha Sùlaisgeir mu 70 mìle mara gu tuath air Nis. ‘S ann ann a bhios muinntir Nis a’ dol airson a’ ghuga. Sgrìobh an Deathainn Munro mu dheidhinn Sùlaisgeir ann an 1549, agus thuirt e gun robh feadhainn à Nis a’ dol ann, ann an sgothan "to fetche hame thair boatful of dry wild fowls with wild fowl fedderi".
Às dèidh a’ Chogaidh, chaidh innse dhomh, cha robh ach aon duine air fhàgail a bha air a bhith ann, An Diùc. Thug esan oideachadh dhan sgioba ùr a chaidh a-mach dhan eilean leis. Tha Fionnlagh MacLeòid ag ràdh anns an leabhar aige Sùlaisgeir, “B’ iad sin na bliadhnaichean anns an tàinig atharrachadh nach bu bheag air an dòigh anns an robhas a’ dol ann – atharrachadh a lean gus an là an-diugh.” (Macleod, 2010)
Chan e traidisean stèidhichte a bh’ ann – dh’fheuch iad a h-uile seòrsa rud a dh’fhaicinn dè as fheàrr a bhiodh ag obair. Mar eiseimplair – dh’fheuch iad am biodh e nas fheàrr a bhith cas-rùisgte no ann am brògan, dh’fheuch iad brògan tacaideach agus dh’fheuch iad stocainnean bobain. Thòisich iad a’ toirt blondins leotha agus chutes airson na h-obrach a dhèanamh nas èifeachdaiche agus dh’atharraich iad fiù ‘ s mar a bhite a’ breith nan eun.
Aig an àm sin, mus do thòisich bàtaichean-iasgaich dhan toirt a-mach, bhiodh sgothan Niseach bho diofar bhailtean a’ dèanamh an cuid slighe a-mach gu Sùlaisgeir air tòir a’ ghuga. Bho 1947 “bha trì eathraichean a’ dol ann, co-dhiù airson greis; cuid nach robh ro uidheamaichte airson an turais.” (Macleod, 2010)
‘S e ’na raids’ an t-ainm a bh’ air na tursan seo, tursan luath airson latha no dhà. ‘S e nàdar rèis a bh’ ann, cò gheibheadh ann an toiseach, cò bheireadh air ais gugannan an toiseach. Thuirt an Gaisean rium ‘bha sinn rudeigin bored às dèidh a’ Chogaidh.’
Seo mar a bha Murchadh Gillies às a’ Phort ann an Nis, no ‘Murchadh Ruadh’ ga mhìneachadh:
Oh na raids… nuair a bha’ d a’ dèanamh na raids cha robhas a’ dol… a’ dèanamh càil ach am marbhadh ‘s a toirt na cinn dhiubh ‘s an toirt dhachaigh. Bhathas gan dèanamh aig an taigh an uair sin… bhathas gan dèanamh air a’ bhreakwater, shìos ann an seo… bhiodh boireannaich a’ spionnadh an uair sin.
‘S e an sgoth Niseach an eathar fhosgailte a bhathas a’ cleachdadh ann an Nis, gu traidiseanta. B’ iadsan eathraichean fosgailte, mar bu trice le seòl agus rèimh. Bha sgothan Niseach fhathast gan cleachdadh aig àm ‘na raids’, leithid ‘An Catriona’ agus ‘Am Mayflower’.
Thòisich an atharrachadh bho bhith a’ cleachdadh sgothan gu bhith a’ dol ann air bàtaichean-iasgaich airson diofar adhbharan. Bha obair an iasgaich air gaiseach agus air stad buileach an uair a thàinig an Cogadh ann an 1914. Bha einnsean ga chleachdadh anns na h-eathraichean ùra, agus cha robh na sgothan Niseach cho math leis a’ mhotor. Cha robh uiread a sgothan air an togail às dèidh 1914 agus bha iad duilich an cumail a’ dol, an dà chuid a’ faighinn obair dhaibh agus a thaobh sructur a’ bhàta fhèin.
‘S e na tarraigean a bha a’ cur às dhan an sgoth, tarraigean iarunn. Bha dà bhliadhna ann gum feumadh tu fuaigheal a-rithist, às dèidh sin bha e ro fhada. Nuair a bha iad a’ dol a chuan dhomhainn leatha, dh’fheumadh i bhith cho math ‘s a ghabhas.
‘S mathaid aon de na rudan a thugad air an atharrachadh seo, ‘s e cho cunnartach ‘s a bha e a dhol ann, ann an eathraichean fosgailte. A bharrachd air An Catriona, chaillear cuideachd eathar Adabrock, Am Mayflower.
Bha aon sgeulachd ann a chuala mi bho diofar dhaoine – mu dheidhinn watch òr Jellicoe agus mar a chailleadh Am Mayflower. Chaidh bàta Adabrock a-mach agus nuair a bha iad ann bha gèile uabhasach ann. Bha iad stèigte air an eilean airson grunn làithean, agus chan eil fios agam an robh fiù ‘s poca sandwiches aca eatorra. Cha robh mòran bùrn aca, tha coltach, a bharrachd.
Dh’òl Eachainn Chaluim Eachainn bùrn à lòn bheag air an eilean agus rinn e cron uabhasach air, bhris e a-mach ann an niosgaidean. Nuair a dh’fhaighnich mi dha Eachainn, cò ris a bha e coltach a dhol a Shùlaisgeir thuirt e, “ bha e fèir diobhalt.”
Bho dheireadh thall, chunnaic iad an bàta-teasairginn Steòrnabhaigh air fàire. Cha robh an gèile air fas càil nas fheàrr agus bha fhathast suaibhle uabhasach ann. Bho dheireadh thall, rinn an Sgiobair an àirde a chuid inntinn. Tha coltach gun tuirt e ‘we’re going in, but I don’t think we’ll be coming out.’
Chan fhaigheadh iad faisg gu leòr air tìr, mar sin shad muinntir a’ bhàta-theasairginn ròpa a-null. Bha aig gach neach ri leumail dhan mhuir agus dheidheadh iad an uair sin an tarraing air bòrd. Sin am plana co-dhiù.
Bha Eachainn ann an uiread cabhaig, shad a dheth a sheacaid, agus lorg iad i am bliadhna às dèidh sin, dìreach far na shad e i. Thuirt Murchadh a’ Ghladstoin ris, is muinntir a’ bhàta-teasairginn a’ dol dha tharraig bhon chreig a-mach tro na tuinn air ceann feist: ‘An aire Eachainn, mus fliuch thu do chasan.”
An uair sin, ‘s e turna Mhurchaidh a bh’ ann. Chuimhnich e air an watch òr à Ameireagaidh le Dòmhnall Tharmoid Sheumais a bha e air toirt leis (cha robh watch aig duine eile, cha coltach). Cha robh e airson a chur na phòcaid, gun fhios nach cailleadh e e. Mar sin, chuir e bhon smugaid aige e, ghabh e greum air an ròpa agus leum e. Tha coltach gun do tharraing iad air bòrd cho luath e, nach deach spriotag uisge air an watch.
Bha turas eile ann, mu thrì bliadhna roimhe sin, agus bha droch aimsir ann. Ach an turas seo, ‘s ann a fhuair iad tobha dhachaigh bho tancair a bha a’ dol seachad air Sùlaisgeir. Ach bha an tancair a’ dol fada ro luath. Tha coltach gun robh asnaichean an eathair a’ gluasad a-mach agus a-steach mar gun robh i a’ gabhail anail. Ach a-rithist, fhuair iad dhachaigh. Bha dithis innte, Calum a’ Bhodaich ga pumpadh agus Murchadh a’ Ghladstoin aig an stiùir. Bha “Cidhe Sgiogarstaigh dubh le daoine ga feitheamh a’ tighinn a-steach: Calum a’ Bhodaich na chrùban air cùl an einnsean, ‘s e ag ràdh ri fear dhe chompanaich, oir bha masladh gur ann le tobha a fhuair iad dhachaigh: “’S b’ fheàrr leam gu robh mi air mo bhàthadh!” (Macleod : 2020)
‘S mathaid nach robh iad buileach cho dàna às dèidh leithid a thursan, agus ‘s ann an uair sin a stad na raids le na sgothan, na rèisdan eadar na bailtean, agus thòisich iad a’ dol a-mach ann am bàta-iasgaich mar aon chriubha, agus a’ fuireach air an eilean gun eathar sam bith aca. ‘S mathaid gun robh sin a’ cheart cho math, leis cho cunnartach ‘s a bha e.
No mar a thuirt Murchadh Ruadh aon turas nuair a chaidh faighneachd dha cò an sgioba a bha a’ fàgail airson a dhol ann, ann an eatha fosgailte “Tha,” arsa esan “còignear amadan agus an Cruthaighear”.
Dealbhan le James McGeoch, le cead bho Chatriona McGeoch. Tapadh leat, a Chatriona!
Gheibh sigh an leabhar ‘Sùlaisgeir’ aig Acair Books (https://acairbooks.com)
Tapadh leibh airson leughadh.
Inntinneach air fad - agus deagh dhealbhan cuideachd. Chuir e nam chuimhne gum biodh mo shinnsearan ann an Colbhasa a' dhol a-null a Dhiùra ann am bàtaichean beaga fosgailte airson giomaich a ghlacadh agus gum biodh iad a' fuireach ann an uamh fad seachdain. Obair cunnartach!